The main difference I have been struck by is that I don't know the language. There's nothing like walking through the Old city, where it is always loud and full of people, and knowing that I have no idea what's going on. It gets my senses going, especially because I'm so used to listening to other people's conversations. I feel like I must not be hearing things correctly because I don't understand. You feel very out of place when you lack a fundamental aspect of the culture.
The thing that is interesting about Israel specifically is that there is a very clear split between the Israelis and the Palestinians. Palestinians are almost like second class citizens here. The conflict itself is very distant from day to day life, though we all feel that shadow of what could happen. One day there could be a stabbing in the crowds around the gates, or the bomb sirens could go off, or a fire could get out of control. It's a feeling of inevitability, that one day there will be a collision and we are just passing the time until it happens.
However, I am very safe. Israel is very protective of Jerusalem because of all the religious sites, so there are army people everywhere with guns at hand. They don't play around here. I personally live in the Palestinian side of town, technically in the West Bank. They son't attack here. West Jerusalem with all the Jewish communities get hit every couple weeks though. You probably heard about the attack in Tel Aviv. We are also protected by our dress and our reputation. We dress very modestly, pants and high necklines, so that we avoid the stereotype of foreign women being sexually loose. Groping is a big issue with that, but no one in our program has had to deal with that. But never fear. I've been honked at, people slow down to look at us as they drive by, followed once, been hit on, and had someone propose to me. There's a lot to love, but also some things not to love. We are known as the young Mormons, and people like us. The shops give us discounts, and people will yell "Mormons" after us. We try to stay in their good books.
The city itself is divided Jewish and Palestinian. The Jewish sides are generally cleaner, with more houses packed on top of each other. There are a lot of people in nicer dress, very conservative and mostly black clothes in the Orthodox areas. The Palestinian sides are dirty, lots of trash and broken glass everywhere. The ground is stained with the juices from dumpsters. The traffic is incredible. Everyone speeds, and everyone honks. If you have to press your brakes, you slam on the horn as well. Same thing if you have to wait at a light. Pedestrians stay on the sidewalk, but if you want to cross, people will stop and wave you across. It's an interesting dynamic. Every building in Jerusalem is made of Jerusalem limestone, this white-cream-yellow-gold stone that turns the color of the sky when the sun sets.
The business areas, and the old city especially are packed with people and with shops. They sell to a lot of tourists, so lots of the same stuff in every shop, the classics like china, crosses, scarves, etc. They also sell spices and food, so it always smells very interesting. I love the smell of spice shops, and I dislike the smell of butchers and fish markets. Little old ladies sell fruits and green almonds from the ground, wrapped in grape leaves. The men run the shops, and they speak a little bit of every language. The crowds are intense, because no one here waits in line. They walk up and force their way to the front however they can. It makes getting out of the Old city at dinner time a hassle. Jews and Muslims and Christians mix in the Old City, but they generally stay separate in their neighborhoods. It's a very religious area, and the call to prayer rings out 5 times every day.
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| Mary and I by the sign. Look at my cute new shirt!! |
